Tryfan. If I had to
select a favourite mountain that I’d climbed
it would have to be Tryfan. I suppose it
really looks like a mountain. There is no long
trek to get to the base of it or slow slog to
get to the top. Within a mile or so of leaving
Capel Curig going towards Bangor you see it on
your left looking like the body of a enormous
prehistoric reptile. A really beautiful and
frightening sight if you know that for the
next few hours you will be going upwards to
reach the top of its "back".
I first climbed Tryfan with Anne and our sons in
1990 when Greg and Ian were 15 and 10 respectively.
We had intended to go up Heather Terrace, but
missed the "turn", and soon were clambering up the
North Ridge.
The view from the north
ridge of Tryfan looking down on Llyn Ogwen. Y
Garn is the mountain in the background.We were
lucky enough to meet up with another climber
who had climbed it before and was taking his
daughter to the top. Having reached the top we
came off via the col between Tryfan and the
Glyders. However, rather than follow the path
down to Ogwen Cottage we went for a quarter of
a mile or so on the Miner’s Track towards
Capel Curig before finding a low level path
that went back to the A5 on the Heather
Terrace side of the mountain.
My second time on Tryfan was some years later when
just Greg accompanied me. We went up virtually the
same way but decided to extend the walk by going
down to the aforementioned col, up the scree slope
to the left of Bristly Ridge. From here it was
across the Glyders leaving the mountains via the
footpath that goes down near the Devil’s Kitchen
and finishes with a pleasant walk along the side of
Llyn Idwal. This has got to be one of the best
walks in all of Wales and it was this walk that
Mick, Larry, Peter and I decided to do in August
1999.
The base of Tryfan is about 140 miles from our
homes and
so it was an early start,
but with not too much traffic, and Mick at the
wheel, we were able to reach the "Little Chef"
at Betwys-y-Coed soon after 9.30 a.m., about
2½hours after leaving Warwick. From here we
were able to contact my son Greg, by mobile
telephone. He was coming from Manchester with
friend Mark who would be accompanying us this
day. So after a drink etc. we continued and
met Greg and Mark in a lay-by at the base of
Tryfan about 45 minutes later. So it was on
with boots, last check of rucsac contents and
we were off.
I have always been, like most people I suppose, a
little anxious at the start of any climb. Today was
no different, particularly as I was the oldest in
the party and had not been on anything like Tryfan
for some time. I started well enough but soon found
the going hard work. I therefore conceded my place
in the lead, but soon realised that the rest of the
party were also breathing quite heavily too and,
although it had been quite cool when we started, we
were all soon taking off top layers as we trudged
upwards. However, it was not long before the
walking started to develop into more of a scramble.
This I found easier as suddenly adrenaline took
over. At times like this I don’t notice the energy
being used.
As we went higher the path, or paths, get more
indistinct and Greg and Mark were giving
impressions of being mountain goats and scrambling
up bits that I was happy to ignore knowing from
previous experience that if I looked carefully I
would find a less hazardous route. At one point,
although I was behind the rest, I finished in
front. A less "scrambly" route paid off. I was soon
accompanied by Greg, Mark and Mick and while Mick
went back to see why the rest were taking so long
the other two carried on ahead to "sort out" the
next part of our climb. I watched Mick go down and
suddenly he vanished from
view. I must admit I
feared the worst. Then he came back into
sight. Some rocks had given way beneath his
feet, but fortunately he had only fallen a
foot or two although from above it looked very
"mountain rescuish". Suddenly Larry and Peter
who both looked a shade or two whiter joined
him. My way had obviously been easier.
After that the clamber up
was less eventful and it was with great joy
that we reached the top and Adam and Eve (the
two rocks that mark the summit) for our lunch
break. Larry was particularly happy to reach
the top. Although he has done some walking in
the Black Mountains of South Wales he
considered this to be a "real mountain".
Although it is not that high, a little over
3000 feet, as stated earlier it really looks
like a mountain and with all the scrambling we
had done one feels a real sense of
achievement. Mick also had not done Tryfan
before but, with his son Simon, had
accompanied Greg and me a few years earlier up
Snowdon.
Food inside us, we started down to the base of
Bristley Ridge scrambling over rocks and feeling
pleased that we were now going down when we met
other groups toiling towards the top. A brief stop
was had at the col before the scramble up the scree
slope to the left of Bristley Ridge.
Now this is where I
really did show my age. An old tennis injury
to my right ankle had made it uncomfortable to
bend and I was very pleased to have the
support of my walking poles as I toiled,
slowly, to the top and the northern edge of
the Glyders. Greg was happy to look after his
Dad and waited to accompany me up the last 30
or 40 metres. At the top the rest of the group
were enjoying the vistas before them with a
wonderful view of Tryfan. Unlike Mick I had
not . I'm glad Peter had his camera to take
this photo.bothered to bring a warm drink with
me and was very happy to
accept a cup of tea, or was it coffee, from
him. Thanks again Mick. I really appreciated
it.
From here we carried on roughly westwards and
within a short time reached Cantilever Rock. Thanks
must go to Peter for what is, I think, the
favourite picture of this walk, if not all our
walks. Although the drop from the "Rock" is only a
couple of metres or so, one is not aware of this
when looking at the picture.
From here we continued to
reach Glyder Fach, shortly followed by the
spiky pinnacles of the "Castle of the Winds".
I should have remembered that there is a
considerable drop if you try to continue the
trek towards Glyder Fawr by passing to the
right of it. So, having initially gone the
wrong way, we passed it on the left, "hit" the
next part of the Glyders ridge and headed
towards Glyder Fawr and suddenly were greeted
by a downpour of rain. Although by now we had
all got waterproof tops on as per usual, like
the rest of the group, I was too slow getting
to my over-trousers and by the time we had
reached Glyder Fawr and the rain had stopped
we were all walking in wet trousers.
Fortunately modern
walking trousers are usually very quick drying
and it was not too long before we were all
walking in dry legwear.
Soon after we were carefully descending the scree
slope that goes off the mountain to the col between
the Glyders and Y Garn, and from here negotiated
the rock staircase that passes under the Devils
Kitchen on its way to Llyn Idwal.
Although I was concerned about dampness on the
rocky downward path it was not as hazardous as I
had anticipated
and we reached the bottom
safely.
From here it was a
pleasant walk by the lake (Llyn Idwal) and below
Idwal slabs, which were being well used by rock
climbers. It was about here that the sun came out
which made the walk to Ogwen Cottage very pleasant.
From here it was back to the cars, walking on the
footpath between the A5 and Llyn Ogwen, to end what
had been a memorable and enjoyable climb on Tryfan
and the Glyders.
Needless to say we needed a celebration drink which
Mick, Peter, Larry and I had at the Three Pigeons
on the A5 north of Shrewsbury. I can’t remember the
name of the brew, although Mick probably can, but
it was a honey beer and it was perfection.
Tryfan and
Ogwen
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