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The Ascent of Pen-y-ghent
Wednesday, 15th
September 2004
Unlike the
previous day and our ascent of Great Knoutberry Hill, the 15th
proved to be a beautiful day and at 11 o’clock, Anne and I were in the main car park in
Horton in Ribblesdale preparing for the challenge of Pen-y-ghent, which,
at 694 metres in height, is
the smallest of the “Three Peaks”.
- If you are interested in the Three Peaks Walk I would recommend
the ThreePeaksChallenge.com.
There
is a very obvious and pleasant circular route to the top of Pen-y-ghent
and back. The clockwise route is a more gradual climb
but means that when descending from the mountain there is a very tricky
downhill scramble to negotiate. In
view of this, we decided to tackle the mountain by the anti clockwise
route, and we were glad we did.
Turning
right out of the car park we initially walked south along the main street
of Horton, going past the café on the right where walkers attempting to
do all the “Three Peaks”, the others being Whernside and Ingleborough,
can register for the challenge. We
continued past the church
and churchyard and, after crossing a bridge over a stream, we turned left
up a tarmac road, which further on went past the local primary school.
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| The
churchyard in Horton in Ribblesdale with a view of Pen-y-ghent
beyond. |
Anne
at a ladder stile near Brackenbottom with another view of Pen-y-ghent. |
Walking the tarmac was easy, but we left it behind
when we reached a sign at Brackenbottom Farm indicating our route to Pen-y-ghent
went left off the road and, having crossed a stile, the ascent really
started. However, before starting this phase we removed our fleece jackets. It was far hotter than we had anticipated and
while doing this a group of female walkers and a lone male walked past
us on their journey to the top.
The
male was soon vanishing into the distance and, although we initially thought
that we would be in the slipstream of the female group, we soon overtook
them and, although they all looked about 20 years our junior, they were
soon left them behind.
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Seems
we have been followed by a dog as we look towards the quarry below
Ingleborough |
Anne,
a little further up the track beyond Brackenbottom. |
One
of my favourite views of Pen-y-ghent, with the different rock layers
now more recognisable. |
The
route was obvious. We just followed the path with the wall on our
left, a bit like going up Great Knoutberry Hill, but the ground was not
covered with peat and was grassy and firm and proved to be easy walking.
As
mentioned earlier it was a beautiful day and the visibility was perfect
to admire the Dales scenery. We
were able to have good views of Ingleborough on the other side of the
valley and, to the north west, we could see the bulk of Whernside and the
Ribblesdale Viaduct below it. These
views certainly made the ascent more enjoyable, although the quarrying
on the hillside below Ingleborough was less than impressive. A real blot on the landscape.
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A
view of Ingleborough. |
Going
uphill on the Pennine way. |
It
seemed no time at all before we were under the steep sides of Pen-y-ghent
where our path met up with the Pennine
Way,
which we would follow for the rest of the day and would ultimately return
us to our starting point in Horton.
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Anne
climbing up one of the steeper parts of Pen-y-ghent. |
On
the Pennine Way, our route immediately got steeper. Because of the variable hardness of the different
rocks, which make up the last 200 metres or so of this peak, and the these
layers have weathered, its steepness is also variable. Initially the gradient is about 30 degrees and
was not too difficult, but when a different
band of rock was reached, and the gradient become steeper, it resulted in us having to
use our hands - a bit of a scramble.
On the top of this band, there is a level
area before our route continued on a stepped slope of about 45 degrees,
before another scramble when the use of hands was essential.
It was difficult going up but was certainly
a lot more difficult for the walkers descending, which is why we were
glad we went up rather than down this path.
However,
once on the top of this last scramble, it is an easy walk to the trig
point denoting the top of Pen-y-ghent, which was having a small seating
area or something similar constructed adjacent to it.
Hopefully this seating will include some type of windbreak as this
top is known to be a very windy spot and currently the only shelter is
a stone wall, which was being well used as a sheltered picnic spot by
other walkers.
It
had taken us a very pleasant 1¾ hours from leaving our car to reaching
the top.
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Building
work in progress. The top of Pen-y-ghent |
Picnicing
and seeking shelter from the wind on the top of Pen-y-ghent. |
Our
north west path that we would follow to take us of the "hill". |
Our downhill path went north
west before turning north and after a left hand turn in the
path we proceeded westwards. The ascent was initially quite steep and I
was glad I had a walking pole with me. However, after less than a mile from the top,
the path, which was obvious and in good condition, became less steep.
Just
off this stretch of the Pennine
Way,
on our left hand side, was a big hole in the ground called Hunt Pot. This pothole, like so many others was “manufactured"
by the rainwater dissolving the limestone.
The rainwater certainly did a good job on Hunt Pot, which I understand
is about 200 feet deep and has an underground watercourse going from
it that comes to the surface by the Crown Inn, near where we parked
our car in Horton.
About
a ¼ mile further on, at a meeting of paths, our return route did a
90-degree turn left. However, rather than going this way we went
90 degrees right and in 5 minutes came to an even bigger hole in the
ground called Hull Pot. This
is spectacular and would have been amazing to see immediately after
heavy rainfall. The “pot” is fed by both a surface and an underground
stream. Today the surface
waterway was almost dry, which was a surprise to us after the previous
day’s rainfall. However, the underground stream, which was discharging
water into the “pot” via a waterfall, looked impressive.
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| Photographs
taken at Hull Pot. To get an idea of the size, note the people
in the first and third pictures. |
Leaving
Hull Pot, we retraced our steps, got back onto the Pennine Way, and enjoyed the views of Pen-y-ghent on
our way back to the car.
While
on this final leg of our walk, we were caught up by the man who had
overtaken us earlier in the day by Brackenbottom Farm.
We remembered each other from the morning and got into conversation.
He had a lovely Yorkshire accent and explained that he was taking advantage
of a week off work to do some decorating and walking. As the weather was good, this was a walking
day. I asked him if he lived
locally and he said “Yes. Barnoldswick”.
I think this was Anne’s high spot of the day.
We have often talked about the lovely, and often strange, names
of so many Yorkshire and Lancashire places and Barnoldswick, especially when
spoken in a Yorkshire accent, is one of Anne’s favorites.

The
walk, excluding the diversion, was 6 miles in length; we climbed just
over 1500 feet to get to the top of Pen-y-ghent and in total it took
just under 4 hours to complete, including all the stops and diversions.
The
map used for this walk was the Ordnance Survey Explorer Map – No.
OL2 – Yorkshire Dales (Southern and Western areas)
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