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A visit to Slad
May 1997.
Laurie Lee, the author of
one of my favourite books, Cider with Rosy, which tells of life in a small
Cotswold Village in the early years of the 20th Century, died on the 13th
May 1997. A few weeks before his death the "Boys" had been considering
another walk and had decided to visit the countryside around Slad. We
aimed to stop for refreshments at the Woolpack Inn in Slad and I suppose
I had hoped to see Laurie Lee sipping a pint there - the Woolpack was
his local pub. Alas, we were too late for this experience as we did the
walk a few weeks after his death.
This "Boys" on this trip,
which was one of the earliest we had done as a group, consisted of Mick,
Larry, Peter, Ray, Spike and myself. Spike is the only one of the group
who is older than I am and since this excursion has retired from work,
and unfortunately now we don't see him much. However, when I last saw
him he looked very fit and he knows I've got this web site so maybe he
will read this and be tempted to get in touch for a walk.
Spike always likes to start
a days walking with a snack. And so on the way down to Stroud, which was
to be the starting point of our little walk, we stopped at one of a chain
of roadside cafés for coffee and a bite to eat. It was quite pleasant
to sit down and discuss the route for the day, but I must admit this "watering
hole" noted for its small cooks, we considered to be poor value. Hence
in recent years we have generally stopped at supermarkets for a Full English
Breakfast, which we can get for the price of a coffee and bun at these
other establishments.
On reaching Stroud, which
I don't think any of us had visited before, a car park was quickly found,
and soon we were walking down to the River Frome and the canal and following
a path south east that took a
course between these two waterways. We had got a route for a walk in this
area, which we initially followed and took care on reaching the next bridge,
after a blue and white bridge, to leave the "waters". From here
we headed generally eastwards along various roads until we reached a steep
uphill path called the Rope Walk. I remember this well as I started to
lag behind, and, if I remember right, the rest of the "Boys" waited for
me at the top. Even then the hills were giving me trouble.
Soon we came to what the Walk
Guide described as the exquisite Nether Lypiatt Manor, owned by
Prince and Princess Michael of Kent. While we were there a Range Rover
went past and we wondered if we had been close to Royalty. However, we
couldn't hang about this posh abode all day and consider how the other
half live and so it was a quick photo of Larry, Spike and Mick, he's the
one with the legs, in front of the Manor and off we went again.
From here it was north and
by a signpost for Limekiln Farm we turned right (east) and descended into
the wooded Toadsmoor Valley. The intention was that we would follow
the base of the valley north-eastwards and come out of the valley so we
could pass Ferris Court Farm and Fennells Hill Farm on the way to Swift
Hill, which is situated, just to the south east of Slad. This we did but
having taken a left in Toadsmoor Woods, when we should have gone straight
on, it took us a little longer than we had intended and so lunch on Swift's
Hill was a little behind schedule.
Swift's Hill was a lovely
spot. The rolling scenery is quite different to Warwickshire and parts
of the Cotswolds nearer home. Here we enjoyed our lunchtime sandwiches
taking in the splendour of our elevation as the sun beat down on us. All
that was needed to add to its enjoyment was a pint of best English Bitter
and with that in mind we continued our trek to Slad going via Knapp Lane
and Furners Farm.
I don't know what I really
expected of Slad. Entering the village from the east we passed a pond
and I wondered if this was Jones's Pond where Laurie, who had been throwing
stones at rats, saw the face of a dead Miss Flynn, without a stitch of
clothes on, staring up at him. It's strange, you visit some places and
guide books and guided walks are developed around the most trivial happenings
and yet in Slad such commercialism seems to have passed it by. It would
have been nice to have had some guidance to relate "cider" to the village,
but then again it would have probably spoiled it. However, there was no
mistaking the "Woolpack" and although we could have gone in and enjoyed
the coolness and the items of Laurie Lee nostalgia that were
inside, we decided to sit outside and continue to enjoy the sun, fresh
air and pints of best English Bitter. It was therefore with great reluctance
that we had to start our journey back to Stroud. Downhill all the way
I thought. But Peter had different ideas. He had looked at the map at
lunchtime and took us uphill on a path that was the southern boundary
of Morgans' Wood. 'Twas uphill, 'twas hot and with the BEB inside us walking
was considerably slower than earlier in the day. But it was very pleasant
and once we had reached Folly Lane it became even more so as our track
was now generally downhill into Stroud via the southern edge of Wickeridge
Hill and Hawkwood.
We keep talking about going
that way again some time, but it in many ways was such a perfect day it
is unlikely it will be equalled.
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